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The Pantry restaurant celebrates 30 years with new menu
Photo courtesy of Andy Cope - The lunch crowd helped The Pantry celebrate its 30-year anniversary Saturday afternoon in downtown McKinney. The restaurant operates in the old Hope Hardware building, built in 1898. Known for its traditional recipes, The Pantry this week released an updated menu.
By Chris Beattie, cbeattie@starlocalnews.com
Comfort food and chocolate cream pies. Tradition and Thanksgiving rushes. The Pantry keeps that small-town charm in McKinney.
But to survive means to adapt for downtown destinations, so as the restaurant celebrates its 30-year anniversary this week, it's in with the new while sticking to the old.
"We want to keep tradition," said owner Cleo Meredith, who bought the restaurant 14 years ago with her husband Tom. "But on the other hand, we want to do new things that will generate more energy and bring in more people."
The Pantry was established in November 1982 on Tennessee Street and moved to the former Hope Hardware building on Louisiana Street in 1991. Constructed in 1898, The Pantry building retains its original brick walls and wooden floors.
That's somewhat a blessing and a curse for expansion, Meredith says. On one hand, customers enjoy the old-time atmosphere and homemade selection.
"We love the homey feel about it, and the food is very good, like you fixed it at home but you didn't have to fix it," said Linda Valliere, a Plano resident who eats there almost every week with her husband Mark. "We just like the feel of it when we come in."
The Vallieres, who became regulars several years ago, often come after Sunday church. They have their "own" table at the front, next to the window. "It's our table," Linda quipped. If The Pantry knows they're coming, it really is. It was reserved for them last weekend.
Restaurant employees remember their names, that Linda likes the pot roast, and are already pouring a glass of milk by the time they get to the counter. That's the charm.
"It's quiet so you can talk," Mark said. "It's very pleasant."
On the other hand, juggling such pleasantries with a need for advancement can be quite the task. Different electrical appliances and plumbing are necessary for new food items, and a century-old building isn't always the most accessible.
"It's challenging because changes in the kitchen must come with time," Meredith said. "Putting in the new equipment for new recipes required a lot from the kitchen."
Customers like the Vallieres keep The Pantry vibrant, but downtown seems to be calling for more. What used to be a daytime, attorney-office, jewelry-store square has become a nighttime tourist spot. Business is after sunset, on the weekends.
"We're prepared for that change, to maybe open for dinner on the weekends, and per requests," Meredith said. "Adapting to the change of downtown is so important. It's definitely not easy but it's fun."
Some of the fun came during this week's celebration, which continues through Sunday. The restaurant had 30-cent pie deals, face-painting, live music and other specials.
Larger crowds still fell short of the upcoming holiday rush, when The Pantry bakes thousands of pies and cakes for locals, in-town family and out-of-towners from as far as Oklahoma.
"People become endeared to us through our Thanksgiving and Christmas pies," said Andy Cope, the restaurant's marketing coordinator. "It's neat to have a local place to get your desserts and everything...You can come here and we'll take care of you personally."
Cope knows all about the restaurant's dessert appeal. He was the lead creator of the five-foot chocolate cream pie featured last spring on Food Network's "Outrageous Food." The TV spot placed The Pantry in national light.
The Merediths are just fine with homemade stardom, though. They're using grass-fed beef from their own Eldorado Ranch, situated 60 miles south of Dallas. The grass-fed movement will further expand through its meal options, with help from a chef constantly "cranking out specials" and building a "delicious, ever-changing menu," Cope said.
Cope's grandparents Billy and Valeta are also regulars, and though they joke it's to see their grandson as much as possible, they seem to enjoy their Pantry experience just as much.
"Everything's terrific," Valeta said. "We'd be yelling if it wasn't here."
With a balance of custom and creation, The Pantry should be here for years to come. Meredith plans to "take it as far as it can go."
That could mean another 30 years of charm.
"A restaurant business is so dynamic, and you have to keep up," Meredith said. "And this one's special. There aren't many places like it."
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